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Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
Hi guys - I have read the What Hi Fi review of the TW6100W and it is glowing to say the least. However I have a few questions I'm hoping some of you guys could help me with
1. Is the TW6100 without the "W" the exact same projector without the Wireless?
2. I will be ceiling mounting it so does it matter that it doesn't have lens shift? (The room is normal shape so if I mount it correctly I think I will be okay - am i wrong?)
3. I read a review that said the lens keeps shifting to focus and that makes it noticeably noisy - is this true?
4. Is there any major downfalls with this projector?
5. Is there a better projector out there between 1000-2000?
Any help gratefully appreciated as whichever projector I buy I will have to live with for the next 10 years.
RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
I think the few of us that have projectors have Optimas. :/ For that amount of money, I'd be getting a first hand demo!
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RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
Hi Rob - thanks for your reply - unfortunately I live in the Republic of Ireland so there is nowhere to test this projector out. Could you recommend a good Optima?
RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
Any current model, heh. I just got the HD131Xe, it's under £500 on Amazon. But if you don't like DLP and want LCD, then I guess Epson would be your first choice?
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RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
Hi Rob - I have a few questions on the HD131Xe if you don't mind. Do you have it ceiling mounted? Is it noisy - picture and sound wise? Does it have lens shift? What is it like with fast action sequences - is there any judder?
Thanks
RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
It's not noisy, I have it ceiling mounted, no judder on fast action sequences, in fact I don't think any DLP projectors suffer from that anyway.
It has digital correction for trapezoid distortion, which is fine if you need to adjust it a little bit. But if you were to need to do that a lot, you'd probably want to go for an optical lens shift solution which it doesn't have.
3D is very good, but obviously the image is darker with glasses on.
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RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
Thanks Rob - I really appreciate all your help - trust me as none of my mates have projectors but I love the cinema feel they provide - so if you don't mind I have just a few more questions
I will be ceiling mounting from day one and won't be moving it until I replace it or it needs a new bulb - whichever comes first. Does that mean that I don't need Lens shift?
How big is your screen? How far back is your projector from the screen?
What is it like with Standard definition DVD?
Any idea what it is like with standard definition TV?
When you say DLP projectors don't suffer from judder in fast action sequences does that mean that LCD projectors are more prone to it?
Any idea what it is like with video games like xbox and PS3/4?
I had a DLP projector before and never noticed the rainbow effect unless I purposely looked away from the screen and then back quickly. Can you notice it on your machine?
Unfortunatley all my surround kit although good 10 years ago is now completely out of date - do you go the seperates route and if so which receiver and speaker package would you recommend.
Thank you so much for all your help so far - its great to get some insights into this projector.
This item was edited on Wednesday, 9th July 2014, 17:37
RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
Quote:
deano59 says...
"Does that mean that I don't need Lens shift? "
Usually if the top of the screen is parallel with the bottom (the bit nearest the roof if you have it mounted upside down) of the projector, you don't need lens shift. If you have very high ceilings and the top of the screen is quite a bit lower than the bottom of the projector then you probably should consider it.
Quote:
deano59 says...
"How big is your screen? How far back is your projector from the screen?"
My screen is 6ft 2in wide visible area (diagonal would be just under 84") excluding the black borders, and the projector is 10ft 3in away.
Optoma have a screen size calculator that lets you work this all out before you get it:
http://www.optoma.co.uk/distancecalc.aspx
Quote:
deano59 says...
"What is it like with Standard definition DVD?"
It's okay, when you are looking at small details it's a bit blurry. You notice the compression a little bit, but it's watchable. Standard def TV is much worse though as it's highly compressed.
HD TV though is nice. :) Freeview HD is very good.
Quote:
deano59 says...
"When you say DLP projectors don't suffer from judder in fast action sequences does that mean that LCD projectors are more prone to it?"
Well the problem depends what the cause is. Movies are shot at 24fps, so when you see pans at certain speeds you will notice judder, nothing is going to fix that completely.
There are techniques to reduce this, but I read they can be hit and miss, improving it in some places but making things worse in others. Just accept the fact that if you want an authentic cinema experience, then juddering on some pans is authentic and would be no different in the cinema.
If the judder is being caused by the screen not being able to update fast enough, then DLP by definition can't suffer from that because the technology is already updating the image at scarily fast rates to keep in sync with the colour wheel.
I understand LCDs can be susceptible to it, but I'd be surprised if any decent current LCD projector suffers from it.
Quote:
deano59 says...
"Any idea what it is like with video games like xbox and PS3/4? "
Alas all I have connected to it is a Wii, but I can tell you Mario Kart is beautiful. :) I'm sure it's even more amazing with an HD console. This 3D Optima (and the 2D one I replaced it with) are, in a dark enough room, as colour rich and sharp as watching a modern LCD TV.
I can see them inducing motion sickness for certain games though, with a big screen.
Quote:
deano59 says...
"Unfortunatley all my surround kit although good 10 years ago is now completely out of date - do you go the seperates route and if so which receiver and speaker package would you recommend."
I'm a big fan of Marantz amps, but other people swear by Yamaha. I think it's probably a personal choice.
I'd upgrade bit by bit, first get a 7.1 amp that has HDMI switching and Audyssey or equivalent for automatically setting up levels via a special mic, then I'd hunt down speaker deals at Richer Sounds for any bits you want to replace.
Just because your speakers are 10 years old doesn't mean you need to replace them!
If you are finding dialog hard to hear (even after raising the level a bit higher than the front mains) then consider replacing your centre speaker. Likewise the left/right front speakers if they are distorting, replace those.
I prefer vertical standing speakers for the front L/R, and bipolars for all the rears. You don't have to spend lots of money to get nice ones.
If your speakers were expensive, and once really good but now distort, you might want to have a go at repairing them, there are often kits on ebay. But again depends how much they were as to whether it was worth it.
I still have my Paradigm PS-1000 sub, but two years ago it started buzzing as a tear had appeared on the surround that attaches the cone to the frame. It cost me £150 from Richer Sounds and about two weeks later went back up to £300 and never dropped in price for the next year before they stopped selling it.
Amazing bargain, I love that sub, so I paid £70 to get it repaired as to get an equivalent new would have cost me £400+.
Bottom line with speakers, is nobody else's ears matter but yours. If you listen to a £150 pair of speakers and you like the sound, don't let someone convince you a £500 one is better, it really probably isn't that much better.
If you are sitting there thinking, "that speaker doesn't sound right" then think about replacing it. Otherwise don't! And when you do, look for a bargain in Richer Sounds (assuming they deliver to you!).
Quote:
deano59 says...
"Thank you so much for all your help so far - its great to get some insights into this projector"
Your welcome! I hope it's some help. If there was a big reason you were interested in the Epson then don't let me talk you out of getting it. As you've had a DLP before though, you'll be more than happy with the Optoma, I love mine!
With regard to 3D glasses, I've tried 4 different pairs and I'm going to write up my experiences with them soon.
Quote:
deano59 says...
"I had a DLP projector before and never noticed the rainbow effect unless I purposely looked away from the screen and then back quickly. Can you notice it on your machine?"
I don't think I've noticed it at all on this machine yet, I only ever noticed it on my old Davis CinemaOne when there was a really dark scene with a small bright area on it and I glanced back and forth, then I'd see it in my peripheral vision.
I should make an effort to look out for it.
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RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
Hi Rob thanks for your very informative answers. My amp is a yamaha but since it has no hdmi I am looking forward to upgrading it - I use a 5.1 satellite speaker package with it - loved it in small apartment but I will have a bigger room in new house so -19 ft long and around 15 ft wide so I was thinking I should invest in bigger sized speakers - I was thinking of going with the Sony 1040 receiver and the Dali Zensor 1 5.1
What amp and speaker sys do you have - would you recommend it - thanks
RE: Should I buy the Epson TW 6100 or a completely different projector?
My amp is a Marantz SR5006, sub is a Paradigm PS-1000, the front center is an Eltax HT-2, the front L/R are Eltax Liberty 5+, the surround L/R are Eltax HT-2 Bipolars and the rear L/R are Wharfedales that I'm replacing with another pair of HT-2 Bipolars just as soon as I can find one for the right price and in good condition on ebay.
I'm not sure if any of those are current (I'm sure the amp and sub aren't), but I'd recommend Eltax as being well made and good sounding. But I'm sure any decent brand would do.
I do really like bipolars for surrounds though, they give a far less directional sound which works especially well when you have the speakers not that far away from the listening position.
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